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Jamaican Countryside - Queen of Spain Valley
I thought I saw a familiar face in Villa Mart, and sure enough it was Carole Cushnie, owner of Blue Moon Villa, at the check-out. Carole updated me on her new venture up in the hills of South Trelawny. Bursting with enthusiasm she told me that I should visit the area and explore the Two Hills Falls.
I could not believe that a beauty spot like this could exist so close to Silver Sands and I had never heard of it. So I organized with my “country man”, driver Michael Stewart, to take me there the next morning. I figured if anyone knew about it, he would as he lives in German Town and knows the surrounding area well. Michael had already helped me to find Quashies River Caves, Donorck River Head Rising, and Caledonia Hill.
To my surprise, although Michael had heard of the Two Hills Falls he had never been there. I became more determined than ever to visit this place that would definitely be “off the beaten track”!
Typical Jamaican Country House with Verandah and Gingerbread Eaves
Michael and I drove out of Silver Sands at 8:25 AM and headed up the hill to take the North Coast Highway to Falmouth. Ten minutes later, after passing Hague Primary and Infant School we took the exit left heading South on the main road to Martha Brae and Wakefield.
Five minutes later we passed through Granville. Along a bumpy road, we passed the Garrick Foyle Farm five minutes later. At about 8:50 AM we passed through Bounty Hall. By now the scenery had changed to lovely views of rolling hills and sugarcane fields. A few minutes later, we were greeted by a “Welcome to Wakefield” sign. We drove by the Wakefield Police Station and Clock Tower, heading straight on to Dromilly.
At 9:00 AM we were driving through the beautiful Queen of Spain Valley with sugarcane fields on both sides of the road.
A few minutes later, we took a left turn at a bus stop. After a few hundred yards, we turned left by the Deeside Lord’s Chapel Church. By now, I knew I was in deep country and I felt like I had gone back in time to an old Jamaica where the houses were made from wood and decorated with gingerbread. But here too there is evidence of modernization as there are many concrete structures in various stages of completion. It was a Friday, and obviously wash day in this area, as every laundry line was pegged out with bright clothes fluttering in the sunshine.
About ten minutes later, we started going downhill and crossed a small bridge over a stream to Dromilly. The road was now very narrow and severely potholed; and in some places the asphalt had completely given way to dirt and stones. It was very noticeable that there were now many tall coconut trees everywhere.
Michael's Bus Parked at Entrance to Two Hills Falls and Park
At 9:20 AM we crossed another stream. A few hundred yards from this small bridge, there is a small hand-painted sign nailed to a post facing in the opposite direction advertising that Two Hills Falls is down a dirt track leading from the bumpy road. Soon we were carefully making our way down this track which wound through banana and coconut trees.
The Sign and the Beginning of the Trail
There were bunches of green bananas aplenty. Michael pointed out a bunch of black bananas on a tree, something which I had never seen before.
Soon we came upon a very rustic bridge which had obviously been put together by the locals with whatever materials they could find.
We could hear the sound of the waterfalls now and it got us excited.
We crossed the shaky bridge and found ourselves in a clearing with lots of trees, which had been labeled with hand painted signs.
 There was a jackfruit tree with fruit low down on its trunk. A huge star apple tree, laden with fruits, towered over some makeshift benches which marked a picnic area. It was a beautiful spot and the sound of the river nearby was the only sound one could hear.
The waterfalls are nothing to get excited about as I would estimate it only falls about ten feet, and it is more of a slope than a fall. Someone had taken a kayak there and abandoned it on the bank of the river, where it was partially sunk.
We thought we were alone, but a young man who introduced himself as Donovan Beckford suddenly appeared with a machete in his hand. He was very friendly and convinced us to go up the hill to see his farm. He proudly showed us around. Donovan told us that this place is owned by his cousin, Ronald Beckford.
Star Apple Tree and Green Star Apples on the Tree (Chrysophyllum cainito)
While the waterfall pales in comparison to others in Jamaica, I really liked this place as it is unspoiled. There are no permanent structures here. There is no ticket booth and no bathroom.
Donovan Beckford on his Farm
I can imagine coming here with friends and a picnic and spending the day relaxing on the bank of the river, making a fire and doing some jerk, just like in the old days. One can swim in the river and someone has even strung a rope from a tree over the water.
Five minutes from Two Hills Falls the road takes you to Bunker’s Hill and the Unity Primary School and Play field is on the left across the street from the Bunker’s Hill post Office. This road will take you all the way around back to Wakefield.
Bunker's Hill Post Office
Before writing the above, I tried my best to find information about this topic on the web. Google only gave me one relevant search result, Cockpit Country Jamaica, which only provided one page called Two Hill Falls & Park.
Who knows, maybe one day Two Hills Falls and Park will be developed and attract crowds like many of the other beauty spots in Jamaica. But for now, if you want to go somewhere off the beaten track and slip back into the real old-time Jamaica, let Michael Stewart take you on a country drive to Two Hills Falls and Park. |
